I grew up listening to my aunts sing “Chattanooga Choo Choo,” so when I went to Chattanooga, I expected to find a grand train station, and I did. But I never expected to find Fairyland.
First, the train station. It’s big, it’s grand, and now it’s a historic hotel run by Holiday Inn. Out back, in addition to a Model Railroad Museum, there are rows of old passenger cars that have been converted into guest rooms. I stay in off-beat accommodations whenever I can (think rooms that house ghosts or ones that are carved from ice) and I’m thoroughly annoyed that the hotel is sold out for the duration of my visit. Oh well, a reason to return. It’s not until the next day that I discover the Fairyland Caverns, tucked near the end of the trail through Rock City Gardens.
As attractions go, Rock City is a tame one, but that’s part of its charm. No flashy rides. No blaring music. Just a nice stroll along rock-lined paths and then, the fairies. The path meanders for about 4/5 of a mile, past a small herd of deer, through two narrow passages (appropriately named Needles Eye and Fat Man’s Squeeze) and up to Lovers Leap, from which I can see into seven states (Georgia, Alabama, North Carolina, South Carolina, Virginia, Kentucky and, of course, Tennessee). In truth, I can’t distinguish the grass of Alabama from the grass of neighboring Georgia, but who cares? There’s a flag of each state, and it makes for a terrific photo. This brings me to Swing-A-Long Bridge, a narrow 180-foot-long bridge over a deep, narrow gorge. It creaks and sways as people tromp across it, which is okay with me, but my friend opts for the detour.
Finally, after reveling in my small hike through nature, I come to Fairyland Caverns, a semi-dark cave where plaster stalactites hang from the ceilings and fluorescent gnomes grin from hidden nooks. It’s about as unnatural as it gets—even a bit creepy—
but that’s obviously an adult reaction. The three kids in front of me, who are probably between 4 and 7, positively squeal with delight. Further into the tunnel, the walls are lined with inset boxes, each one containing a detailed diorama of a favorite fairy tale. There’s Red Riding Hood and Snow White and The Three Bears….
Offhand, I can’t think of a tale that isn’t represented. By the time I enter the large room where all the Mother Goose characters are set around a ten-foot castle, I’m deep into the mindset of make-believe. Sure, it does look a bit like a giant model train set-up—or maybe I just think that because I’m still hyped on trains—but once again, the kids are delighted. And that’s really all that matters.
Notes: Considering that Fairyland Caverns is meant for the younger set, many of whom have siblings still in strollers, it’s unfortunate that the trail leading to it isn’t stroller-friendly. Plan to carry the baby.
Christmas at Rock City Gardens is, I’ve been told, quite spectacular. According to marketing materials, from November 20 through January 2, “a million lights will illuminate the age-old rock formations.” In addition, this year there will be a “North Pole Adventure” replete with elves, Mr. and Mrs. Claus and even a sleeping polar bear. Chattanooga is an extraordinarily kid-friendly destination. Also check out Ruby Falls, the wonderful hand-carved carousel at Coolidge Park and, of course, the city’s famous Tennessee Aquarium, where visitors can trace the path of a raindrop as it makes its way from a mountain stream down, down, down to the ocean.
GrammaGal Andrea Gross is a long-time journalist who has written for major women’s magazines and large newspapers (when there still were large newspapers)! Now she divides her time between traveling (as often as possible with her grandchildren), writing about those travels for various publications and helping seniors preserve their life stories.
Great images! This reminds me a lot of Storyland in northern New Hampshire – tho it has since expanded since my childhood (when it was all Three Little Pigs & Mother Goose) to a bona fide amusement park w/ flume and roller-coaster rides. Definitely not as quaint.
Sounds like a fun place to visit – and thanks for the tips about the strollers!
This is so interesting. I’ve never known about any of these things. I love the concept of the “train hotel.” Wonder what the rooms are like??
Thanks for these suggestions. I plan to travel Tennessee to see a cousin and how surprised she will be that I already know about these attractions!
I think the gnomes would freak me out, but the train-car rooms sound great. I’ve only been to TN once, but loved it. In fact, we nearly moved there once.
Hi Andy, thanks again for the lovely post. Now I have a new place to add to my travel list. I think the kids will love it.
~Beth
Great description. I didn’t even know this place existed til I read about it here.
This is info worth passing on to family members with little ones – thanks.
What a neat sounding place! *Almost* makes me wish my kids were still of that age.
This looks like a lot of fun. I’d like to know what the rooms are like too. I’m also interested that the writer went without children. I have a question for her: is it worth going to WITHOUT kids or is it mostly a kid-friendly attraction?
We took our daughter two years ago, when she was 6, and she loved it. We were able to sleep in a train car, and we did Rock City, Ruby Falls and the Incline Railway. We loved it.
Thanks for reminding us about Chattanooga!
Hi Jennifer,
Fairyland Caverns is just a small part of Rock City Gardens. There are wonderful rock gardens, all sorts of plants and, of course, that 7-state view so yes, it’s a good place for adults too. And if you like to hear about quirky — and supremely successful — advertising campaigns, check out the story of how Rock city became famous. (Hint: it has to do with big signs painted on barns throughout the
Midwest.)
It’s a good place. Enjoy!
Andy (Andrea)
What a fun, informative post. Makes me want to borrow somebody’s kids and go. When, oh, when, will I get to be a grandmother?
I lived in Chattanooga many years ago. Thanks for the reminder.
Nice! Those gnomes are really trippy… I think I’d get lost in there.
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